MSC

for flexible casting

Stockholm AB

A few words about the casting itself first



Have respect for the flame and focus on it throughout the casting, it is very hot!

No alcohol or other drugs before and avoid molding if you feel stressed or tired!

Remove any ignition and glassware, etc. at a proper distance from the flame!

Check that the crucible is firmly attached to the handle!



If you cast at home, you can build up a corner of heat-insulating tiles in e.g. Vermiculite.



Shows a picture below (for left-handers it is better to turn the mirror, so that the left hand has room to turn when the metal is poured into the ingot).

For you who have no experience of casting



There are very many videos on YouTube that describe the casting itself in more detail than in my videos, e.g.


https://youtu.be/Ypa_MZDeEwk and https://youtu.be/UnMmST0h2UQ and

https://youtu.be/30MjFapkYZ8


But, as one teacher told me, there are about as many ways to cast as there are casters, so feel free to check out a few different videos.

I use Delft clay, an oil-based sand that gives a very good impression.

The sand (or clay) is quite expensive, but you can reuse all sand that hasn't been burnt in the casting.


There are some general principles when casting metals with a high melting point (silver, gold, brass, steel, etc.)


The metal solidifies very quickly when it flows into the funnel (ingot). A good mold is where the metal can fill the mold as quickly as possible.


The ingot must be funnel-shaped all the way down to the mouth, where the metal flows out into the mold.

Otherwise it will be like a bottleneck and it will be slower, unsuccessful casting with the highest probability, see the figure below.

If you are a beginner, make the hole at the mouth quite large, about 5-7 mm, so it goes faster (it will be a little more to saw off and file away, but may be worth it in the beginning).


The mold must have air channels so that the metal pushes the air through them when it flows in. (If they did not exist, the air would have to get through the metal to get out, does not work ...).

Make air channels where the metal will flow in last.


For example, in the video when I cast a heel ring, the silver comes last to the corners of the heel, suitably making an air duct from each corner of the ring heel in the lid. When casting a 'regular' ring, as in another video, the metal ends up last on the opposite side of the ingot, suitable to make 2 channels there, one obliquely upwards from the top and one obliquely downwards from the underside, see also the figure above


Personally, I think that the placement of air channels, how many and how large, is the most difficult problem when casting. You often have to try it out and try to figure out what the metal looks like after a failed casting what went wrong.



There are some things you have to buy, such as a burner set (eg SIEVERT Pro 86), a gas tube, some crucibles to melt in and a holder for the crucible. If you are casting on the stove (like me), you also need 3 Vermiculite tiles to build a corner as in the picture above.



I also plan to have some introductory courses in the spring in Stockholm, possibly the first in January-21, I just have to find a room first, but it should probably not be that difficult.



Feel free to write a message to me if you are interested in participating!